Your wood doesn’t necessarily need to be sealed, but sealing it does protect it. Liquids are prevented from discoloring or staining wood and water is prevented from soaking into it.
As well as providing a protective barrier against wear, it can also slow down the aging process. Many people prefer the look of sealed wood because it has a more finished and polished appearance.
What is the best way to protect stained wood? Do you have to use a clear coat? It is true that staining highlights the natural wood grain and creates a rich, deep color, but it does not offer long-term protection.
Top coats of polyurethane protect wood against scratches, stains, and water damage. However, staining does not provide long-term protection, even though it creates a rich, deep color that highlights the grain of the wood.
Whether it’s water, food, or sharp objects, wood can easily be damaged without a protective topcoat. Water damage, scratches, and stains can be prevented by a polyurethane topcoat.
Does It Really Need To Be Done?
Generally, you don’t have to do this, but it prevents moisture ingress and the wood from swelling. It is possible to have a matt finish with oil-based stains without sealing them.
Clear coats, either matt clear coats or satin clear coats, are available on the market. They don’t necessarily make stains obvious, but they seal them over.
What Is The Best Way To Apply Clear Finish To Wood?
An extra step such as applying a clear finish is always worth the effort. You can protect your wood from staining, water damage, and natural wear and tear with a clear finish.
Your DIY project will be transformed into a beautiful piece of furniture when you stain and finish it.
Even with the directions on the can, tackling any new experience can be intimidating, but there’s nothing quite like learning from a real-life experience.
Throughout this article, I will provide some advice from my own experience on applying finish to DIY projects.
Step 1: Choosing The Right Finish
The finish you choose should be compatible with the stain you’ve already applied if you’re finishing a previously stained piece.
It’s always safer to select a clear finish from the same brand as your conditioner and stain, with the same base (water or oil).
To ensure they’re compatible with each other, do a test swatch on a scrap piece with the different brand. You must allow your stain to completely dry before testing if you are mixing bases.
The polyurethane I usually use has a satin sheen and is Varathane crystal clear polyurethane. Whenever I need a finished product, this is what I reach for!
Water-Based Vs. Oil-Based Finish
Polyurethanes are available in water-based and oil-based forms, but I prefer water-based polyurethanes for their clarity.
Water-based polyurethane, on the other hand, is truly “crystal clear” (in the can it seems milky, but it dries totally clear).
The amber color of oil-based polyurethane darkens with time whereas the crystal-clear color of water-based polyurethane lasts a lifetime.
In the case of darker stains, this won’t be an issue. The best clear coating to use is water-based if you want to protect whitewashed or gray stains from yellowing or if you need to finish light-colored wood that will not yellow.
There are additional differences between oil-based and water-based polyurethane, such as the cost of oil-based is generally lower, the need for fewer coats, the strong smell, and the time it takes to dry.
Water-based polyurethane dries harder and thinner. Generally, water-based cleaners can be cleaned up with water, while oil-based cleaners require mineral spirits.
Spray-On Vs. Brush-On Application
Like spray paint, spray-on finishes aren’t as thick as brush-on finishes and aren’t as tough. You may think that spray-on is the right choice since it’s quicker, but it won’t be as tough as brush-on finishes.
In spite of this, spray-on finishes apply smoothly, whereas brush-on finishes leave some brush marks (these brush marks are reduced by brushing over the grain while applying the finish).
The brush-on finish is my preference when it comes to long-lasting furniture pieces like tables, chairs, bed frames, and moldings.
If I don’t want to spend the time hand brushing something intricate – like a wood doormat or outdoor games – then I use spray-on. The only time I’d consider brushing on polyurethane is when I think, “There’s no way I’m doing that.”.
Step 2: Prep Work
In order to apply a clear finish, it is important to prepare the surface. Choose a location first. A dust-free area is a good choice, as well as one where children, pets, and the weather will not interfere.
Make sure you follow the recommended temperatures on the label of the product that you will be using to ensure that everything dries correctly. It’s also important to pick a location with good ventilation since most finishes have some odor.
You should then lay a drop cloth over your work surface to protect it. Canvas cloth with a plastic backing is my preference since the fabric absorbs finish.
But the plastic underneath provides a firm boundary between your work and your work surface. Finally, clean the wood’s surface of dust. The air is always filled with dust, and if you just sanded your project there will be fine sawdust everywhere.
Tack cloths (waxed cloths), vacuums, and rags dampened with water or mineral spirits can all be used to remove dust.
If you choose a different method, make sure the directions are compatible with the product you’re using. In order to apply a water-based finish evenly, tack cloths should not be used before the finish is applied because they leave residue behind.
Step 3: Apply The Finish
It’s important to make sure that any stain you’ve applied to a project has completely dried before you apply a finish.
Your finished piece will look better if you stir it well rather than shaking it. If you shake it, you can end up with air bubbles on your finished piece. Bubbles can also be created by overbrushing.
For oil-based finishes, use a natural bristle brush; for water-based finishes, use a synthetic bristle brush. When applying finish, work with the grain to prevent raising the fibers and to conceal brush strokes.
If any drips are left at the bottom of your wood, you should remove them while it is still wet. Ensure that the finish dries completely between coats, but do not exceed any time restrictions listed on the can.
It is usually necessary to sand the finish down after exceeding the time constraint, so if you aren’t planning on sanding between coats (see step three), applying within the time limit will be easier.
The wet finish becomes harder to see as it is applied over the dried finish when applying multiple coats of a clear finish. The parts you covered and the parts you missed can be more easily seen by applying light at the surface level.
To avoid accidentally coating one part twice and missing another entirely, I highly recommend coming up with a pattern to follow while you are coating a more complex project that has a lot of surfaces.
Step 4: Sanding
The directions normally ask that you sand between every coat (once it’s dried), or before the final coat. This can really make a difference in the results.
It always pays off to sand clear finish instead of wood because it takes a fraction of the time. It is impossible to dust my finished pieces if I do not sand them.
As a result of sanding before the final coat, any fibers that had risen out of the polyurethane finish are removed.
Despite their tiny size, these fibers are rough enough to make dust removal nearly impossible. You’ll feel like a pro when you get that smooth surface from sanding.
When you skip sanding between coats (as instructed by your finish product), your finish may not last as long, or it could need to be redone sooner.
When you sand between coats, your finish will adhere to the previous one, which will result in a long-lasting finish. So just remember, sanding now will save you time and heartache in the long run.
You should generally use 400+ grit sandpaper if you decide to sand (or your instructions call for it). There is no difference in technique between dry sanding and wet sanding, regardless of what product you’re using.
If you want to use wet sandpaper, make sure it is marked for wet sanding. After sanding, be sure to remove any dust before painting.
Make sure your final coat of finish completely dries before using your piece. Follow the directions on the can.
Use your best judgment when it comes to drying time (when in doubt, always err on the side of more drying time). Humidity, temperature, coat thickness, and the quantity of coats may all affect drying time.
Frequently Asked Questions about Wood Care
1. When Applying Stain, What Should I Do?
Make sure the color you want is what you want by testing it in an inconspicuous area before applying it. Choose a wood type that matches the rest of your piece.
Be sure to thoroughly stir the contents before using. In the same manner as you would for paint, it is important to stir thoroughly before using stain.
Stain should be applied with a high-quality synthetic bristle brush, foam brush or clean, lint-free cloth. When applying, we prefer to use a cloth that is lint-free so that we can have more control.
Make sure the wood is saturated with stain by applying liberally in the direction of the grain. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for letting the stain set on the wood.
In the case of Varathane Wood Stain, we recommend 5 minutes. When the color is less intense, wipe it immediately; when the color is more intense, allow it to absorb for five minutes. Stain should not be left to dry for more than five minutes.
The excess stain should be wiped off in the direction of the wood grain. You should wait until the stain is completely dry before applying a protective clear topcoat such as polyurethane or lacquer.
2. How Do I Apply Polyurethane?
A high-quality brush should be used to apply polyurethane. It is recommended to use light, even coats of polyurethane, brushing with the grain always.
Keep the overlap between coats thin, but do not overbrush. In order to achieve adequate durability, it is recommended to apply three coats. The product packaging will tell you how long the product needs to dry.
3. Is A Pre-Stain Or Wood Conditioner Necessary?
It is common to use pre-stain or wood conditioner on soft wood, such as pine. Often soft woods have an inconsistent porous nature, resulting in blotchy or uneven stain finishes.
To fill in the wood pores for even color coverage, pre-stain or wood conditioner works as a base coat prior to staining.
4. What Is The Recommended Amount Of Sanding?
Depending on what type of wood you are working with, sanding can make a significant difference to the end result’s aesthetics.
Choosing the right sandpaper is the first step. It is difficult to remove broad, deep scratches on inferior paper because it will wear out quickly, accumulate sanding dust, and wear out quickly.
If you have any large scratches, use the coarsest grit of sandpaper (80- to 100-grit). Some purists argue that all sanding should be done by hand, but we believe that random-orbital sanders are okay for this task. The choice is yours.
The wood grain should always be sanded in the direction of the grain, never against it. Prior to moving onto the next sandpaper round, remove the sanding dust. Using mineral spirits and a lint-free cloth, you can remove sanding dust.
Sand the entire surface with 120- to 150-grit paper. Sanding dust should be removed. For a final sweep over the wood surface, use fine 180-grit sandpaper.
Before applying the stain, make sure all sanding dust is removed.
Final Words
It is best to apply a clear coat to stained wood to protect it. The color and grain of stained wood fade over time, and a clear coat protects it and enhances its appearance. Rather than not clear coat, it’s better to do so.
Making your DIY project look like something you made yourself can sometimes be the difference between something you’re proud of and something you won’t believe you made yourself. We hope this breakdown will help you finish your projects easily!
